Third time is the charm...

Looks like work is rolling in again next week, so it was now or never today in my effort to bring the ride to Crystal Lake to a conclusion. Unfortunately I am going to have to hook you with this (again, I know) because glutton for punishment that I am, la familia and I are now off to the County Fair. I hope they sell new legs there, because I think I am going to need them. And now, in conclusion: Needless to say, though the urban area down below was sweltering under triple digit temperatures, it was not much cooler up high, the thermometer on my computer was telling me it was in the high 90s. It honestly did not feel like it; mind over matter,  I guess. I have noticed a lot of talk on local forums, lately, about the Glendora Mountain Road (GMR) climb. For my money it just can not compare to Highway 39. You do have to put up with a little traffic in the opening miles, but once you get past West Fork, the traffic becomes a trickle, and then past Valley of the Moon, it becomes non-existent. As we all know there is something especially appealing about riding along a car-free road in absolute solitude. People who do not think they could do this whole route from Duarte up, should keep in mind that there are any number of places further up that you can start from - West Fork, has a large parking area, as does Valley of the Moon (the furthest up you can drive). Just don't forget your Forest Adventure Pass. For the entire out and back ride, I ended up with 52 miles, over 5800 feet of elevation gain, and I rode it in just over four hours.

About the point I left off last time

2000 comes easy enough

That's right, up there

Once past West Fork, the road looks like this, and autos are a rarity

Still climbing. All that greenery in the canyon bottom marks the course of the North Fork, San Gabriel River. If you click on the photo look for a shallow "V" in the distant mountain ridge with a dark patch of trees below it, I believe that is where the bowl holding Crystal Lake lies

Same again, just slightly further along the road

Requisite handlebar shot

There is this wide sweeping turn here skirting what is called Valley of the Moon Plantation. While riding along here once, long ago, there was a group singing hymns from somewhere in the forested area just visible to the right. Never saw anyone, so it was kind of surreal. Just at the end of the sweeping curve in the distance is a locked gate, beyond which lies a car-free paradise

Look at that, the West Fork Road is a National Scenic Bikeway. Unfortunately the Bear Creek Trail goes through the Wilderness area so you can't get to it by bike from this point (Valley of the Moon Plantation)

Another one of those signs, meaning more climbing ahead. Just around the bend is Coldbrook Campground which, since it is on the uphill side of the locked gate, is unused right now. Kind of spooky, really

A 12% switchback, about as steep as it gets

Getting higher and more scenic. And there is that dark patch of trees beneath the peak in the distance

The high country

How many layers of roadway can you count. Looking down on Coldbrook campground

A little further along you reach this area called Falling Springs where the roadside gets very lush and green. There are numerous cabins hidden away up here, and streams with little waterfalls tumble down the mountainsides

Another little waterfall. Notice the ruined chimney in the background and the burnt trees; forest fires plays havoc with the scattered homesteads up here. There are a few more switchbacks from this point before reaching the turn off to Crystal Lake. Unfortunately this is where my camera batteries ran out of juice

Just so there is not doubt, there be bikes on the road here.

Highway 39, part 2... No, dagnabit...

Well, today was supposed to be the day I presented you with part two of the ride up Highway 39, from West Fork to Crystal Lake, after all something good should come from there not being enough work to require you showing up for the Friday half-day at the office. Instead, the powers that be had other ideas. Things started out well enough, other than a whole lot of earth moving trucks rumbling through the canyon, other traffic was Friday-lite and the early part of the ride was going good. I made it up to the West Fork in good time and chugged on through. About a mile and a half later though, I came upon an unexpected locked gate; I knew of the gate up just past the lake, but not one this far down; what gives? Anyway I stopped to take my first little breather of the ride. There was a resident coming down the mountain who was having some problem removing her key from the lock on the gate, and she asked for help. I did what I could, which was nothing. In that brief bit of time, though, a warden drove down and asked if I was going to continue up the road, and then further said that he was sorry, but I would have to do it another day as the road ahead was closed due to law enforcement activity. He did not volunteer any additional information, and I did not press him on what that activity might be, but it put an abrupt end to this day's ride to Crystal Lake. So it wasn't a total loss, I hit up the West Fork road again, which is always a good consolation ride.

Expect a little more burn in the legs, deepened breathing,

and quickened heart rate when you come upon this sign.

The first time I traversed this stretch of road must have been after a trip

through New Mexico, because my first thought was how similar it looked

to some canyons in that state.

End of road today, looking back down. Anyone up for it next weekend?

My Favorite Routes III: Highway 39, Part 1...

I guess I first discovered this ride some 15 years ago while living in Pasadena; Highway 39, San Gabriel Canyon was just one of those San Gabriel Mountain rides that anyone who considered themselves to be a climber had in their repertoire of rides. As far as these mountain road rides go, I had moved progressively east over the years starting with the Big and Little T's (Big Tujunga and Little Tujunga Canyons), and Angeles Crest and Angeles Forest Highways, while living in Burbank. Then came Big Santa Anita Canyon to Chantry Flats. Next in order should have been San Gabriel Canyon (aka Azusa Canyon), but I momentarily skipped it to conquer Glendora Mountain Road (GMR) and Glendora Ridge Road (GRR) due to a race along these two. But the Highway 39 climb was always talked of in almost epic terms, as if you were not someone until you made the trek to Crystal Lake. During the mid-1990s this became a regular training ride of the team is was riding with, as well as when out by myself.


So where to begin? How about Duarte, it is as good a place as any, maybe better since the first two miles of this route takes you up the San Gabriel River Trail to its end at the mouth of the canyon. Actually since they extended the path a number of years ago you can stay on it for a bit further, or exit at the visitor center and take to the road from there. I split this ride into two parts mostly because the first half is so different from the second. The grades down in the lower portion of the canyon are more slight, and the gradual upward trend is broken by occasional short sections of descending. Anyway, take your eyes off the road ahead from time to time and you will notice the river rolling along off and down below to the right. It actually looked and sounded like there were a series of rapids along portions today, I suppose because they had the floodgates open below the lower dam, so there was a lot more water than normal rushing down river.

last bit of SGRT

San Gabriel River, framed

turning up

Morris Dam

was it not cool of the bridge designers to provide these little windows to frame the view

Morris Reservoir

how cute, they cut the mountain to match the dam

Mt. Baldy

East Fork Bridge

It isn't long before you crest out (momentarily) at said first dam, the Morris Dam. If you are new to the canyon, congratulate yourself on reaching this first landmark. With the blue waters of the reservoir down below to your right you descend for a bit, but then start climbing again. Signs along the road warn you not to trespass or loiter, so keep the wheels spinning. Not too far beyond Morris Dam you may notice the concrete ramp perched above the water edge; this is a little of what remains of an old naval weapons testing base which began operations in World War II. Submarine-based weapons systems were developed here, things like torpedoes, and even the Polaris rocket. The base was decommissioned I believe in the 1990s. From here you enjoy a little more descending, before another climb, this time to peak above the second dam, San Gabriel Dam. Unlike Morris Dam, which is concrete, San Gabriel Dam is an earthen dam. Again you will ride along with the reservoir down below to the right until one final short descent brings you to the East Fork. If at the bridge you take a right and cross over you can eventually hook up to the GMR mentioned earlier and make a loop. But we will stay the course along Highway 39 which is mostly level for a bit now. Pass the OHV area and the Rincon Fire Station, tackle a short hill, and arrive at the West Fork. This is a popular fishing area and staging area for mtb trips along local trails.

the various fishing platforms along the West Fork are named for the fish that can be found there

wet pavement

deeper into the mountains

Glenn Camp

color coordination

the river road

all's well that ends well

Since I arrived here having hardly broken a sweat, I decided I would ride along the West Fork for the seven miles it takes to get to Glenn Camp. This is a paved road, closed to traffic (though there may be occasional Forest Service or utility vehicles) so don't completely let your thoughts wander to the surroundings, as compelling as that may be. The 14 mile round trip West Fork is as easy a paved ride in the mountains as you will find. Watch for an upcoming "Bring Out Your Bikes" series ride taking place here, to be posted soon. Glenn Camp near roads end was my turn around point, and getting back was just a matter of shooting back down canyon. The wind today, did not seem to want me to leave, and kept trying to push me back up canyon. I won out though, hard not to when heading downhill. Friday traffic was light, especially returning; expect weekend traffic to be heavier, but still not bad considering how many people live in the city down below. By the way traffic tapers off dramatically beyond the West Fork, for whatever reason you may only be passed by a handful of vehicles on some days. Total distance for this first half of the Highway 39 ride was 38.3 miles, I rode it in 2.5 hours, though that included many stops for photos and the cruising speed West Fork section. Part two will cover the section between West Fork and Crystal Lake, the much steeper, more epic portion. One additional note on the road - like most mountain roads this one is not for the timid, there are sections where the pavement crumbles away into the dirt right at the white painted lane line, and you will be riding in the lane. The rewards are well worth the effort, but if you are at all apprehensive about riding in close proximity to motor vehicles, this may not be the ride for you.


My Favorite Routes II: Mountain Junction Loop
My Favorite Routes I: the Palmer-Evey